Flexor tendon injury climbing reddit. Lubricate and lightly massage at the site of the injury.
- Flexor tendon injury climbing reddit. g. Within the ten most frequent injuries over the years 2017 and 2018, three were to the tendons and tendon sheath/pulleys. Unfortunately, the past 5 years or so have been riddled with tendon injuries and it sucks. I'm very skeptical of FDP tendon injuries as a PT. Could have been one the tendons of one of your flexor digitorum muscles, or an issue with the thick fascia called the palmar aponeurosis? Total speculation though, definitely see a doc who can do more diagnostic tests to know for sure. In a longitudinal comparison of patients in a climbing-specific sports medical clinic, the pulley injury is consistently the most frequent injury, followed by tenosynovitis and capsulitis of the finger joints Look up a good rehab protocol for distal biceps tendon ruptures. I’m a hand therapist and always watch rock climbers re-injure themselves because they want to rehab out of every injury (I’ve been guilty of this in the past). Conclusions: LLLT is a proper adjuvant therapy in flexor tendon repair. Just started climbing a few weeks ago, and I keep reading about the potential of injuring tendons of you push too hard. For (1), even Megos himself can't dry-fire off tiny crimps all day long without eventually hurting a tendon. Despite rest and care, I continued to experience pain, leading to an MRI. I found that didn’t work for me, and it was necessary to stop climbing completely and Last month I cut through my pinky with a sharp knife, severing the flexor tendon in the top most part of my pinky. I rested a week, buddy taped the shit out of it and tried climbing with three fingers today. Go see PT. Damn I‘m so happy finally I was able to solve a V6 again. I stopped climbing about 3 weeks ago because, after 3 weeks of babying the injury and only climbing easy routes at the gym, I didn't notice any improvement. Grade 3 injuries (e. It has improved but everyday things still bother it and climbing seems like an impossibility. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the climbing specific stresses. This is obviously NOT a "flexor unit" type injury as if the flexor tendons were actually strained then you would have pain doing crimps and open hand movements. Causes A loud “pop” and then significant swelling and pain often indicate damage to the flexor-tendon pulleys. "Flexor unit strain" just needs to go away in my professional opinion. I started a website and offer advice to anyone else who has this type of injury and would guidance. . Two days ago I was finally able to climb at my old limit. And 2. Can anyone help me with my injury please? I've been climbing for 4 years now and I'd say over the past year what I presume is my flexor tendon has swollen. This is a sport I love and I’m apprehensive about returning to it in fear that lifting too much weight might snap it again. I took some rest and it felt better so I started climbing with some taping. After one week of injury I have been going climbing in the gym. First V6 after flexor tendon injury. Your injury sounds like it could be a lumbrical strain but it could also be a dorsal interossei muscle strain. 5 times as long as muscle to develop. Like, potentially keep coming back for years and years, In this video we'll discuss the injuries and rehab activities associated with the flexor digitorum profundus, or FDP. Specifically wich tendon are we talking extensor or flexor (making a fist, or opening a fist)? I can give you some better advice with a little more specific information about your injury. When you find cool medical stuff to post, please try to add a medical background. The pain is on the outside of my finger on the middle joint. Unpleasant twinges of pain are felt along the length of the tendon through the finger and Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. Evidently, LLLT promotes tendon healing, alleviates the pain, and assists flexibility of soft tissue and joints, leading to the tremendous improvement in patient cooperation and compliance. Back is super complex!! Dont try and self diagnose!! Dont climb until pain is fully gone and rehab it carefully. Ultrasound has shown mild pes anserine bursitis and semimembranosus tendinitis. My tendons hurt a lot at that point, and after that moment, they did hurt after certain activities (like swinging arms too fast often). For the last two weeks I am doing pelvis, hamstrings , quadriceps and calves strengthening and stretching exercises. Did you ever experienced such an injury and is there a medical treatment that I have to take? Did anyone have pes anserine bursitis? For a month I have pain when doing deep knee flexion. For core strength, situps, leg raises, oblique leg raises, cobras to stretch them out, scorpions, butterfly holds, and planks. It is very There was no injury incident so I think it's the result of over training. Was wondering if anyone returned to climbing after an injury like this and what was your Finger Injury 1 month ago I strained my flexor tendon in my ring finger on my right hand. However, as my ring finger has been healing pretty well, I seem to have injured my middle finger on my left hand. I was wondering if someone could help me out identifying what kind of injury this is (details in comments) Especially considering that the injury in the case would have to do with the flexor digitorum superficialis or profundus. Results. Tendon injuries take a long time to heal and even longer before they return to full strength. Hey there, sorry to hear you're injured. This video cannot be played. I ignored this advise initially, but now not climbing and planning working towards a slow rehab. For context I have been climbing for just over 2 years. Definitely keep your doctors appointment, but I think that your self-diagnosis is accurate - I've heard the injury described as a flexor unit strain, which is a pretty general term but it matches your symptoms exactly. Surgery is typically only recommended for multiple ruptures, but yeah, I think you are right that surgery is the only way to get another functioning a2. I was wondering if people have any out of the ordinary advice on A. These are tendon strains which often occur in the ring finger when using two or three finger, open handed holds. Tendon injuries take on the order of weeks to months to heal. Hey peeps, I have been climbing for around 10 years, primarily sport and bouldering. Will climb for a bit and everything is fine, and then it returns when I try to ramp up grades or up the intensity. Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the red putty. A comprehensive treatment plan, written by a physical therapist and based on evidence-based research, to rehab your injured finger. He recommends further rest, and light climbing at "50-60% intensity" once or twice a week so that I don't lose too much strength, taking ibuprofen beforehand to combat further inflammation. (Week 3-6) Tape the injured finger, stretch your forearms (this relieves the stress on the finger tendons) and climb the biggest holds you can I've seen a some discussion on here about how having warmed up fingers and climbing seems to either negate or just mask the pain of a finger injury, and the general consensus seems to be that climbing is okay (and even beneficial to rehab) as long as you don't start to feel significant pain while climbing. But the A-pulley injuries seem to be much more common. not a flexor tendon strain. It sucks dealing with injury, but if you're careful about this you can come back quickly. Will start to flare up and I take a break. And with good reason: While climbing is a full-body exercise, fingers make the most contact with the rock, thus taking more abuse than Hey, I had a similar injury (flexor tendon strain). Hello everyone, About three months ago, I shared my struggles with a climbing-related injury in my right wrist. Most of the advice and rehab protocols I could find were for flexor carpi ulnaris After 2 weeks, start back up, climbing really easy stuff. They say if you have tendon injury, keep climbing, but lightly. 5 times as long to heal, chronic injuries can knock a climber out for years, so really two weeks off is light. If this is the case, and given the chronic nature of your injury, there are potential long term functional implications for the healthy use of that digit of left untreated that could not only curtail climbing, but ultimately functional flexion and extension of the digit. Asking if going to a PT will make a difference is like asking if going to the doctor will make a difference. If you have done a flexor tendon, then make sure you find a washbowl or bucket and get the forearm in there too. My understanding is that the remaining pulleys do a good enough job supporting the flexor tendon in climbing that surgery for a single rupture isn't quite worth the I've been battling tenosynovitis (trigger finger without any locking) in my right ring finger for several months now. Now, if we were to look at a pulley injury, we might see some inflammation there as well, but if the injury is severe the obvious difference will I think I have a similar injury, but I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed a slight bulging in the forearm as a result of their flexor tendon injury? I stopped climbing about 3 weeks ago because, after 3 weeks of babying the injury and only climbing easy routes at the gym, I didn't notice any improvement. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. Don't climb anything where you drop your pinky for a while. ; Abstained from climbing TL;DR. FLEXOR TENDON INJURY - RETURN TO INDOOR BOULDERING? curious question, but has anyone (or do you know anyone) that has had a complete rupture of the flexor tendon (the tendon AND pulleysnot just pulleys) and was able to return to climbing after surgery and recovery? I’d recommend going to see a doctor or get a referral to a hand therapist. I had flexor tendon repair done zone 2 middle left finger on 1/6/22. If it turns out to be a complete rupture, prepare yourself for a few months of rest/physical therapy/NSAIDS, and His injury book is great, i'll update this post tonight with some more info from his book. How long is hard to estimate at this point. Is it common to have some soreness on your fingers or should I wait for it to fully disappear before resuming climbing? So about 4 months ago I had flexor tendon surgery on my pinky for a severed tendon. Edit: and before anyone says i'm anti-taping, I'm not. You'd have more palpable edema and Rock climbing can be a strenuous sport, and is especially strenuous to the muscles of our finger flexor tendons and muscles causing injuries. The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my That's a super common climbing injury. Posts must have a medical connection and OP interaction with commenters is strongly encouraged. Started climbing back in March this year again. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I had a very severe flexor tendon injury two years ago and fully recovered (except for some sensation in my hand due to nerve damage). If you've been there, got injured and healed - welcome! Share your experiences with us! Bowstringing needs to be detected with either an MRI or ultrasound. ) So perhaps the more relevant question then is, do the annular pulleys of the fingers take longer to strengthen than the flexor muscles of the forearm do? 21 votes, 37 comments. The results reveal the following: A tear of the ulnar attachment of the triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) with avulsion around the fovea - meaning the tear caused a small piece of bone to be Furthermore, this is a review of climbing injuries, and so is going to overemphasize the likelihood of injuries or long-term degenerative changes from climbing. I started when I was 25. Lubricate and lightly massage at the site of the injury. It really does depend on the severity of OP's injury, no two climbers will have the same rehab process. Given the shock load, could be a pulley injury, isolated finger flexor injury, or just an unlucky combination of tendon/muscle strain of one of the flexors, but again it's difficult to specify without more information, and obviously without physical assessment. There are 2 A lot of misconceptions IMO. Because once you know the grade or Hello, recently I’ve had this chronic swelling and bruising which I received from climbing too hard one day, goes away after 2 weeks, but re-appears after A friend of mine, who is also climbing, told that he had this condition several times and claimed that it is the tendon snapped partially. I am at a stage of my climbing (V5-6 My middle finger tendon has been sore for a week, it is healing though since the tender area is diminishing. MembersOnline • mhbhmcinui The injury occurred over a month ago but does not seem to be healing very quickly. However it can't be argued that tendons need time to heal themselves and rebuild collagen. I've seen half a dozen hand surgeons over the past 18 months due to ulnar-sided wrist pain that developed in a similar manner to yours (no specific traumatic event and could generally crimp/climb with only specific positions that generally involved twisting the wrist causing pain, tenderness the next day etc. Keywords: low-level laser therapy; rehabilitation; tendon injury; tendon repair. Try a Climbing is a connective tissue game (tendons and ligaments) these take 2. 8-10 sec holds. Every injury can be such a large range of things from muscle imbalance to soft tissue damage to a flexor tendon tear and pain in the hand doesn't always indicate an issue in the hand, it could be an injury of tendons in the arm or vice versa. My tendon felt sore right after. As others are saying, stay off of it til you see the doctor. 99% of the time what breaks or gets strained in the hand is not the FDP but Year 4 (current): strained/pulled/tore muscle or tendon in back. A recent trend is to require more and more PTs to have doctoral degrees, so they know their stuff (source: I have a relative who is a PT). On my first really easy warm up route I Sounds most like a flexor tendon tear, (see here) It's a pretty serious injury. The upside is cold turkey rest tends to be bad (imo), and active rest is usually the way to go so you get to keep clinging. I know many people climb with injuries, I've recently damaged my ring finger. I have read what I can find online about this injury, and all around the ”professionals” say that you should rest completely and slowly progress into climbing again after the symptoms are gone. I'm having it put back together in a few days and I was wondering if anyone else has suffered similar flexor, not pulley, tendon injury and what your recovery was like? The surgeon told me i'm in a splint for roughly six weeks and Taping to support finger tendons can help prevent injury, but studies show the most commonly used taping method doesn’t do the job. Learn to listen to your body to reduce risk of slow overuse, and structure climbing days to prevent This weekend I severed (cut the shit outta) my flexor tendon between the a3 and a4 pulley tendons (possibly injured the c2) so my pinky doesn't fully bend. Now for the anecdotal stuff. While you can usually diagnose between an overuse syndrome and pulley injury/rupture on exam, maybe 1/10 require some kind of imaging. I injured my flexor tendon almost exactly a year ago - since then I've been able to recover enough to be in my strongest climbing shape ever, even though I'm 31 and have been climbing for over 15 years. For me I have been able to climb at almost max effort within days as long as pulling with all 4 fingers. Also plan to introduce back and core workout. I try to always warm up well and take good rests between burns. Obviously your case isn't as bad as a complete rupture. I'd talk to a doc so you can get a prescription for a PT, who will show you the right exercises and stretches, and maybe give you ultrasound to help speed up recovery. I ended up taking a couple days off then started climbing again with my ring and pinky-finger buddy-taped I've been climbing for 14 years and do everything from bouldering to alpine. For A2 pulley injuries, the most At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. Is it possible to still hurt tendons on holds other than crimps? I have absolutely no crimp strength, so I don't even try at this point. For 4 weeks, every day I. Rest from climbing and do tendon glides and pen rolls. full a2 ruptures) are typically treated conservatively. Some questions I have are: What was your timeline like? What remedies worked / didn't work? Has anyone had experience with cortisone injections for the injury? This injury was originally diagnosed as a I saw my hand/elbow doctor about it this week, and his take was that it's not likely to be actual damage, but probably just inflammation, just tendonitis. Repeat a few times per day. It's most likely an injured lumbrical i. FWIW I think distal biceps injury doesn't get How do I keep my tendons healthy? I've been climbing for about 5 years now. I know tendon injuries are complicated-- most I hear about are simply tears / ruptures as opposed to complete cuts. 1-2 days later everything felt fine again and after one more day I went climbing again. It worked wonders for my distal biceps tendinitis. I'm currently recovering from a partially torn flexor tendon and expect recovery to take another 3 months. You can do some grip strength with theraputty type stuff. The two parts to that failure are (1) over training and (2) weak tendons. How to prevent tendon injury (exercises, supplements, anything!) B. It doesn't hurt when Anyone else experienced a finger injury with no pain on an active hold but pain upon touch/pressure to the area? Prevent and recover from flexor tendon injury climbing with expert tips on causes, symptoms, prevention strategies, and effective treatment options. Climbers should try to avoid injury as a number one rule, especially tendon injuries. Had a nearly 18 month break due to a flexor tendon injury. Recently I've been plagued by all types of tendon/ligament injuries: A2 and A3 pulley injuries on 3 different fingers, volar plate injuries, A5 pulley injury, and flexor tendon injuries. Adapt the protocol accordingly. A sprain or partial tear needs time to Reddit's rock climbing training community. Rest is good in my situation. ) and if nothing else I have learned that there are a multitude of Oh and the next morning the whole finger had turned bruise coloured. Are you injured? On the road to healing? Join us for good advice and support. They are not particularly rare or bad injuries but can take a while to heal. (Initially I was told it was my flexor tendon rupture but that was incorrectly diagnosed and seemed to be intact on the ultrasound) but I was advised at my hospital to avoid putting weight Well, I didn’t think calling it insertional medial common flexor tendinopathy rehabilitation was a layman’s enough term for a starting point for a climber with long term medial elbow pain. The minute I was injured I was doing rice bucket and finger extensors and (Note: Climbers do also sometimes experience flexor tendon injuries as well, and the flexor tendon is indeed a tendon. This doesn’t fit my mentality, OR the fact that tendons in general respond better to use then rest when it comes to recovery. Have a recurring injury on the outside of my forearm (think flexor carpi ulnaris area). So, don't worry about the boxing tape or fret that your climbing days are over. If I'm mostly doing climbs that don't involve crimps, am I still at risk to finger injury? Here's what I've heard about recovering from tendon injuries: Above all, listen to your PT. Don’t push it, if there’s painstop. I've been recovering from two doctor-diagnosed pulley strains for a month-- A3 Tendon injuries are usually overuse injuries, and often don't resolve in a week. Anecdotally, my wife had this happen several years back and partially tore her flexor tendon as well as a muscle in her forearm. "Another common finger injury is flexor unit strain. Grade II: (Week 1-2) No climbing. Does the palm side of the finger hurt or the knuckle on the back of the hand? Do pulley injuries actually heal? I have done extensive google researching and every description of an A2 pully sprain or a flexor tendon strain doesn't sound quite right, which is why i was hoping to hear from someone who encountered a similar injury. How to enhance tendon recovery? Hello there! So, I have self-diagnosed tendonitis (both tennis and golfers elbow) that I got when I did about 300 push-ups being untrained in the same day. Slowly increasing resistance by isometric holds by hanging weights off your fingers and progressing toward hangboarding with body weight reduced and then full body weight. This subreddit is about recovering from an injury. We’ll start with Pulley injuries generally occur because you apply more force to a tendon than it is ready to handle. Tendon injuries can stick around for a long time if you don’t treat them or learn how to manage them. I'm curious if anyone else has had any luck with clearing this injury. I used to be able to lift over 2 times my weight and relied a lot on my arms for climbing. The flexor tendon injuries I had were pretty serious although it wasn't a full tear. Flexor Tendon Injury - How long! Been playing golf for just over a year now, obsessed, tore both tendons in my left pinky monday (and digital nerve), severed my finger with glass. Physical therapy has begun and the doctor is being reserved with giving me estimates on if / when I will climb again. Tenosynovitis, or inflammation of the finger flexor tendon sheath (synovium), is a common overuse syndrome that climbers may experience. It is now 12 weeks post surgery where they repaired both flexor tendons and severed nerve (with donor nerve). e. I remember having a finger ultrasound a few years ago where the sports med doc said I have the trademark thickening of The goal of r/MedicalGore is to foster medical discussion and learning through the gruesome reality of the vulnerability of humankind. It was a detached tendon - a piece of bone holding the tendon to the last joint had You want to keep it in for at least 20 minutes to get the desired reaction, which you can see if your hand becomes flushed and red. Its got full range of motion and the ache is not constant, pain is mild and only if I massage or press on it. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. I would highly recommend seeing a sports medicine specialist, or a doctor with experience with hand injuries. The good news is that my injury allows me to climb with a 4 finger open, half crimp, or full crimp grip. So let’s take a deeper look at each of those grading criteria so that you have a better understanding of the injury. I popped my flexor retinaculum and partially tore my flexor tendon, just before a six week climbing trip. hwm sdhb fewjorb mdicc tktvd boot duxn fqdeqq irngidig ttcoiit